What's Next? - Ryan Gill

Cycling

So you have everything set up, the tank is ready, and you have picked out what fish you want as well. Before the fish can be bought and added to your new prize, the tank must be properly cycled, or given time to have the nitrogenous cycle get up an running. In the natural world, there are hundreds of types of bacteria that contribute to nitrification, but in the aquarium setting, we rely manily on two species, nitrosomas and nitrobacter. The way the cycle goes is this: The fish produce ammonia, it emits from thier gills, and their feces break down into it, and it is highly toxic. The first bacteria, nitrosomonas, breakdown ammonia, NH4, and produce nitrite, NO2, which is only slightly less toxic. This reaction is limited by the concentration of oxygen in the water, so it is imperative that the water we well oxygenated. The second bacteria, nitrobacter, breakdown nitrites into nitrates, NO3, which is only toxic in large doses becuase it can stunt the growth of fish, and plants don't like it is large concentrations. The nitrates are removed during water changes, and algae, and to a certain extent plants, will absorb some nitrates. Cycling the tank usually takes about a month, sometimes shorter, sometimes longer. The bacteria don't just spring out of nowhere, as well, but must be added to the aquarium by way of seeded gravel, or the bacteria in the bottle. I recommend the bacteria in the bottle, especially Tropical Science's "Nitromax" series. I also recommend getting your water tested every four or five days, to follow the new tank cycle. New tanks will experience, a spike in ammonia, followed by a spike in nitrites as the ammonia goes down, and then a gradual increase in nitrates. After the tank has been cycled, water changes should be begun and continued.

Water changes

The amount and interval between water changes is determined by the amount of filtration, specifically biological, that is on the tank. Water changes bring in fresh water, and allows for the lowering of nitrates, hardness, whatever has built up in the aquarium since the last changes. The water added back should be as similar as possible to the water that is already in the tank, accept for any changes that you are attempting to make in the aquarium, i.e. pH, hardness, etc. Any changes made should be done slowly, as to avoid shocking the fish. As I said, the regularity is determinable by the amount of filtration on the tank. Bare bottom tanks will need small frequent water changes, whereas tanks with wet/dry filters will only need large water changes every so often. As a norm for discus tanks, 30 to 50 percent water changes weekly is good idea, regardless of filtration. Barebottom tanks will need about 20% water changed every two to three days, depending on fish density. This is in addition to the siphoning of all debris that should be done as often as possible. Sponge filter will take care of some debris, but a lot will just sit on the bottom of the tank and decompose, and should be siphoned off asap.

Dip Tubing

Tanks with undergravel filters will need to have more than water changes done, though it is done at the same time. Using a device referred to as a "dip-tube" attached to a siphon, the gravel is cleaned and the water is changed. The reason this is done is that becuase the undergravel filter pulls water through the gravel, debris tends to collect there and become trapped. We liberate the debris to keep the gravel clean so as much water can get through, and so as not to much too much strain on the bacterial (biological) filter. Tanks with undergravel and live plants should try to avoind the roots of the plants when dip-tubing the tank.